‘Architecture’ Archives
A Palace Beneath the Vineyards
Setting off on another random expedition, we drive westward on the national highway. When the traffic becomes intolerable in Iraklion, we take the Knossos exit – although we do not plan to stop there. Passing the entrance to ancient Knossos, jammed with tourists, we soon emerge into farmland. We drop down into the gorge of [Read More]
Accidental Discovery
We never know what our travels will reveal, and maybe that’s a good thing. Sometimes one discovers more by accident than through exertion – as we learned today. This morning we started out to find Nirou Hani, a large Minoan villa near the beach town of Kokkini Hani, about halfway to Iraklio. A very simple [Read More]
River in the Underworld
Our visit to Kerameikos has made us curious about Eridanos, the stream that appears out of nowhere at the Sacred Gate of ancient Athens. In Greek mythology, Eridanos was a river god of Attica – where Athens is located. In other myths, however, it is mentioned as a river of the Underworld – the realm [Read More]
Gates of the City
An electric tram carries us from the Faliro waterfront to Syntagma Square in about forty minutes. It is a short walk from the Syntagma station to the Ministry of Culture office, where we must present our credentials to obtain scholar passes. Since the official paperwork won’t be done for a few days, we walk back [Read More]
Unconquerable Lato
While visiting the highland village of Kritsa, we decide to explore the fortress city of Lato, just a few kilometers away. In the late 19th century, a famous archaeologist examined its “cyclopean” walls (built with huge stones that only a giant Cyclops could have lifted) and declared Lato a Mycenaean city. That misguided assertion [Read More]
